Hola dear friends, que tal?

I’m writing from Port de Pollença, a wonderful bay in the island of Mallorca.

I’m here to restore Memphis of Dartmouth, an old ketch from 1928 that will be part of the next project I’m working on with a few friends: Marcel Dolega, Alena Zima, Nicola Zago, Volker Saul, and Joanna Bark.

The project is called Be Water.

I’m busy with Phil, a kind friend who’s giving lots of help, teaching me so many things about how to fix the boat, that I’ll sail towards London through the Rhone and the French Canals in the late spring of 2013. (more…)

 

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

 

Last step, first step

I did it! We did it! Clodia, all those who gave something to this journey, passion and water, and me. We arrived in Byzantium, Constantinople, Istanbul.

It’s been more than two years from the very beginning, from the first flash of the idea, the dream with open eyes, watching with respect and apprehension every small creek in front of us. A thousand travels by train, bicycle and on foot. The sleepless nights working with Pati de Ross, a great friend. The worn out shoes. The thousand of “not” from people who could not or would not help, the disappointments, the hugs, the angels who helped me immediately and unconditionally, the selflessness and love, generosity, and my many mistakes. Everything was great and part of a real project.

I remember the start, with Jacopo and Massimo Di Nonno, who photographed, and Nicola Pittarello who was filming in the cold wind of the Thames. The freezing nights, well below zero, in England, the 20-day wind at 40 knots, straight from the Arctic, the horizontal rain, the fire of the Shipwright’s Arms pub to dry my wet clothes, the disease, the four months between hospital and bed, the Danube frozen.

The second stop was not planned but neither the first was, to tell the truth.

And then the 346 locks, the 18 aqueducts, rowing or sailing suspended 30 meters in height, the 8 tunnels, 2000 and more bridges and 5401 km of joy, suffering, and a lot of wind and water, underneath, beyond and sometimes inside Clodia. And sailing and rowing so much. Never give up. All the way till the end. But where is the end? (more…)

 

Black Sea pass

In every journey, like in every life, there’s a place where you stay longer than expected. Pleasant or not.

Sozopol held me for 20 days. It was up to me, I would have stayed even more: I’ve been happy there. In Sozopol there’s some magic, on that rocky cape.

Beside all the nice and interesting encounters during the festival, I’ve faced a series of fast but strong meteorological depression that created dangerous waves for Clodia, that’s not built for that kind of sea. The pauses between disturbances were not long enough to calm the sea, so I couldn’t set off.

In the meantime, time was passing by. In Istanbul many people were waiting for me and I, who manage to make it to the Black Sea by the end of July, felt bad not to have taken the chance to sail in the best two months for navigation. However, I was kindly asked to wait until september to get a better media coverage, so, being my project also about communication, I couldn’t refuse.

Waiting, the art of waiting: I’ve become a very good artist. And I always try to get better at it. (more…)

 

Istanbul

Yesterday evening Giacomo has finally completed his endeavour by reaching Istanbul.

He’s now guest of the Koç Museum, in the Golden Horn.

 

A Black Sea

The Black Sea. I’m in now. I sailed for 230 nautical miles, more or less 420 km. I was rather worried, this sea seems even blackest than I thought: Waves, sudden thunderstorms, traffic.

I’m in Sozopol, a wooden and rocky castle built over a bay that provides a safe port for sailors from centuries. The safest harbour of the Pontus Eusinus. But why is this sea called Black?

The Turkish gave it this name, in contrast to the “White Sea” aka the Mediterranean. As a matter of fact, the Aegean Sea is often white because of foam and rollers. But why Black? I can’t find an acceptable explanation yet. Its colour is blue.*

The water, from Constanta to here, is transparent. In Sozopol you can see deep under water for four metres. Going south even deepest.

So why? I believe “black” is in the mind of men who love to fright their siblings. As many sailors very well know, the most dangerous sea is that where you are at the moment. And the locals tell that, despite you have sailed across the Northern Forland (Great Britain’s hell, 7000 wrecks in a few miles) and the English Channel with its current, it’s nothing compared to the danger of this coast… (more…)